Thursday, April 20, 2023

Visits to Higginbotham on Platform No. 1

Sipping coffee—the saviour of the otherwise dull Sunday—as I flipped through Hindu paper, my eyes got stuck on the page that portrayed a few photos of yesteryears of Indian Railways and a little of its history: the first passenger train ran between Bori Bunder (Mumbai) and Thane on this very 16th of April in 1853. Today, Indian Railways rank fourth in the world with around 114,500 km track and about 7,500 stations. It is the only railway network in the world that is managed by a single entity: Ministry of Railways, Government of India.

It at once awakened the child in me. For, there is something evocative about the trains: it conjures up our childhood visions of waiting for the train on the platform, the powerful echo of a train on the tracks resonating in the quiet station, which announces its arrival long before the black beast chugs in; the sudden commotion on the platform as the passenger train anchors; the coffee vendor’s deep baritone voice airing “coffee-coffee-coffee” without pausing for breath; in a frenzy, everyone boarding the train, our fighting for the window seat to watch the endless stretches of lush green beetle vine orchards of Angalakuduru and hutments behind the palm-groves of Sangamjagarlamudi village that pass by the window … peeping out of the window to watch the steam engine backing-up towards our train to haul us to our destiny… Aamma pleading with me to pull back my craned neck and to sit quietly…. Oh, what not!

And, as we graduated to adulthood, these experiences took a new colour. In the pursuit of education, as we all, having gone to different institutions such as AU, BHU, Sagar University, Agriculture College, Engineering College of different towns, etc., come summer, used to land in Tenali one by one for holidays.

In most of those evenings of summers past, we used to assemble at the park abutting the tank, talking about all sundry into late evenings. … In between, me, Sridhar and YSR in some evenings used to go to the railway station just to walk along platform No.1 from south cabin side to north cabin and back till the GT arrived … just to vicariously enjoy the sense of adventure in the comings and goings of exciting passengers.

This ambling in the railway station and waiting for the arrival of GT remained firmly etched in my mind as a sweet memory. For, the lovely lore associated with the whistling steam engines and passing trains, their choo-choos, chug-chugs, the rhythmic clickety-clack of the wheels of the long goods train that passed through the loop line … involuntarily counting the number of wagons tucked between the engine and the guard cabin as they slide before our eyes … everything of them heard and seen even at that age of life had such an allure that how one can forget all those unique experiences and maze of memories ….

The most inquisitive part of this whole ritual … the ritual of visiting the railway station was: our hanging up in front of Higginbotham stall—a habit that I perhaps picked up watching my brother in the late 50s when I would go to station to see him off as he boarded Howrah mail. Secondly, hanging out before that iconic stall would perhaps appear then as an intellectual demeanor—though, looking back I feel so stupid of it! 

We used to spend quite some time before it staring at the titles displayed on the racks. Prominently displayed were the mystery books of James Hadley Chase. This British writer, who wrote more than 90 mystery books, was perceived as the greatest thriller writer of all time. But somehow for reasons unknown, I could never get enthused by Chase mysteries, though read his popular title A Coffin from Hong Kong.

Rather it was the novels of Perry Mason, written by that Californian lawyer-cum-writer, Erle Stanley Gardner, stacked in the top row of the stall that sucked me in for reasons galore: Once accepted a case, Mason was known to juggle the evidence using unusual tactics to mislead police but to locate the real culprit; his private investigator, Paul Drake helping him out by gathering information that he wanted much ahead of the police; his unacknowledged romantic interest for that cute secretary, Della Street, who was always ready to put his calls through even at late hours with a smile but of course, tauntingly, besides supplying him mugs of hot coffee; his cross-examining the accused and as well as the cops with alacrity and finally pinning down the criminal to the surprise of everybody makes anyone love to read all of his novels. The first and last novel of his that I remembered to have ever purchased from this stall was The Case of Long Legged Models. And, how hungry I was to read them all!

There were a few other rows of novels, prominent among them were novels of Albert Moravia, Jane Austen, Peral Buck, Somerset Maugham, Dickens, Agatha Christie, Alistair MacLean, Ian Fleming, Graham Greene, Daphne du Maurier, RK Narayan, etc. Also on display were the texts published by ELBS (English Language Book Society) such as Teach Yourself Statistics (though purchased, no attempt ever made to learn out of it), etc., that were made available at reduced prices. These visits kept me informed of the popular titles/authors/new arrivals, etc. That aside, thanks to the stall-boy, I was so lucky to enjoy the benefit of reading the blurbs on the covers of various books besides peeping at a few pages here and there. And that pleasure and the pleasing thoughts of those beauteous evenings gave “life and food for future years”.

Right in front of the stall were the magazines and newspapers—Illustrated Weekly, Mirror, Imprint, Filmfare, Femina, Baburao Patel’s Mother India, Pillai’s satirical Shanker’s Weekly, Span, Karanjia’s Blitz, Hindu, Indian Express, Screen, Cine Advance and few Telugu weeklies and dailies—that were spread on a waist-high desk. I used to read the headlines silently… And once noticed the creeping unpleasantness on the face of the owner, I used to pick up Bhavan’s Journal, the only magazine that I could afford to buy in those days (its price was one-quarter of a rupee) hoping that it would please the owner and walk away to catch up with the incoming GT.

At 19.15 hrs, as the GT chugged in, platform No. 1 at once gets electrified: the moving panoramas through the windows of the cooped-up inmates… boys, girls, lungi-clad middle-aged men of bureaucracy and their accompanying sari-clad women with glistering ear studs … all getting up and stretching hands with yawns… some youngsters trying to rush out of the compartment with pots/aluminium cans to fetch water from the taps on the platform … trademark cries—“Vadai vadaai… coffee coffeeee”—of vendors on the platform, the bonhomie of the alighting passengers… the saddened faces of the boarding-passengers … all those interesting scenarios … all those vicarious pleasures remained fascinating to recall even today.

As the GT chuffed out of the station with a long wail, everything turned quiet—an eerie stillness creeped in. And as we climbed the footbridge in that overwhelming silence to walk out of the station the hissing sound of the leaking steam from an engine in the loco-shed near the north cabin had only furthered our melancholic sentience…

**

2 comments:

  1. Do we still have these Higginbotham stalls on platforms? It used to be the habit of many of us,your contemporaries, in our ' younger days' . to browse books and magazines on the railway platforms. In the years1966-68 on my travel to and from NDL to Vijayawada I too used to get down at some big stations like Nagpur and browse magazines/ books. Occasionally bought a book or two. Thank you for sharing interesting episodes of yesterears. Hope these stalls are still in existence.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks, Dr Ramachandra for the visit … I think Higginbotham stalls are no longer in existence on railway platforms. This chain of bookstalls was confined to the then-Southern Railway stations only…The bookstall that you visited in Nagpur must be that of AH Wheeler & Co (Wheeler’s), the chain of railway book stalls that began its journey from Allahabad Railway station, which was confined to stations in Northern states. I think this chain is still functioning…

    ReplyDelete

Recent Posts

Recent Posts Widget